Bottle is placed lengthwise on Cutter with
bottom flush against backstop and resting on the rollers. The position
of the backstop and rear rollers determine the point at which you cut
the bottle. To adjust length, loosen screw and slide backstop and
rollers forward for a shorter cut and backward for a longer cut. To
make an extremely shallow cut (for coasters, ash trays, etc.) remove
screw from slot and reverse position of backstop. See sketch.
When cutting a bottle or jug of larger
diameter (up to a gallon or larger), increase distance between rear
rollers and backstop so that bottle rests securely on rollers.
Using a round smooth bottle with parallel
sides, select the location for the desired cut. Adjust the backstop to
this length and place the bottle on the cutter as shown in sketch.
A light etch is all that is required. Apply only slight pressure on the bottle while rotating the bottle toward you
with your hands. Not the position of the hands in sketch. To assure
an accurate cut, keep the bottle firm against the backstop. Do not
allow the bottle to stop turning while scribing the etch. A slight
crunching sound will signal the completion of the etch. ONE REVOLUTION OF THE BOTTLE IS ALL THAT IS NECESSARY.
Best results are obtained, and damage to the cutter wheel is avoided
when the etch is not duplicated. If the etch is properly scribed the
ends will meet.
Before the bottle can be separated, it first must be uniformly heated. Light the candle and slowly
rotate the bottle in one direction with the tip of the flame about an
eigth of an inch directly under the etch. Usually about three or four
revolutions are sufficient.
Then rotate the bottle two or three times at a faster pace to give a
final uniform temperature to the glass. The bottle should feel hot to
the touch, but not too hot to handle.
Place bottle in an upright position and, before te bottle cools, rub
an ice cube around the etched line one or more revolutions until the
etch becomes a crack. Crack should continue completely around the
If a slight tug on the two pieces fails to separate them, don't try
to force them apart. Return bottle to the candle flame and reheat the
etch as in step 3. During this reheating process, you may hear audible
"clicks" indicating that the uncracked portions along the etch are now
cracking. After heating again, try to separate the two parts once more.
Remember, don't use undue force, let the glass work
itself free! (Sometimes, it's necessary to repeat the heating and
cooling steps several times depending on the thickness of the glass.)
To prevent chipping, rub the inside and outside edges lightly with a
piece of the coarser polishing paper. See sketch. Then, sprinkle a
small amount of the polishing powder on a flat, hard surface; a glass or
metal pie plate or a piece of window glass works fine. Do not use any
surface of value for polishing since the polishing powder will cause
scratches. Dip the edge of the glass in water and then place on the
polishing surface. Start to grind in a circular motion as shown in
sketch. After a short time, the edge of the glass will become perfectly
flat and have a dull gray appearance. Again, smooth the inside and
outside edges with the polishing paper.
The finer polishing paper should be used to give a final smooth finish. Use water on the paper periodically while polishing.
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